Back Again With A 1959 Gale Buccaneer 35HP

[garry-in-michigan]

That starter draws almost 200 amps. It takes a well charged heavy duty (Marine) battery with good connections to do the job. You need a 12 volt starter solenoid, a lesser switch would burn up. If the battery is weak, pull the starter rope. It takes 20% less effort when the compression relief valves kick in. If you can’t get the wiring harness, A solenoid may be mounted inside the motor cover and activated by a push button switch on the front. It should be wired so it only works when the motor is in neutral. . . 😉

[outbdnut2]

Your motor should also have a position-sensitive mercury switch on the throttle near where a remote throttle cable hooks up – this should complete the coil circuit to ground of the solenoid to make it only crank at low throttle settings. Look for a small silver part with one wire coming from it.
Dave

[garry-in-michigan]

Interesting – the electric start model doesn’t show a tiller.
1959 35 HP E start

1959 35 HP standard

[harpua]

Upon further inspection i noticed some very clean oil leaking from what appears to be holes near the bolts holding the lower unit here are some pictures – i am not sure if these are factory or not as i am just getting familiar with these older motors, and there is a lot of pitting on the fin, so i am worried. where do i start with this? it was laying down for a while (10 years) and I just put it upright. i am amazed by how clean the oil is.

The flat piece is defintiely moving and seems to be going down. can i tell if it hits the valves without tearing down the top of the motor?

how do i get the glass fuel bowl apart..lol?

[harpua]

interestng the tiller color matches the unit as well. i am using a deep cycle battery with a solid charge, but not a marine starter battery. but i do have a large 800+ cold cranking battery for my truck, would that be better to use for today at least?

will also look for positive mercury switch near throttle. there was a small black butterfly knob attached with a wire to the motor, it looks broken and bent. what is that? i will take another picture of that too.

[outbdnut2]

quote Garry in Tampa:

Interesting – the electric start model doesn’t show a tiller.
1959 35 HP E start

I noticed the same thing on my 1958 35 Buccaneer with tiller. Maybe the dealer ordered up the tiller from a manual start motor parts list and added it on?

Dave

[outbdnut2]

I have cranked these motors from a deep cycle trolling motor battery and it worked OK. When I’ve tried jumper cables directly to the starter, It’s tough to get the cable clamps to get a good, conductive bite on the starter terminal and a good ground, especially with the motor vibrating as the starter cranks the motor. On a battery, the jumper cable clamps dig into the lead terminals for more contact area.
–
The filter bowl has a metal bracket under it – the finger-nut at the bottom of that bracket unscrews and backs down to the bottom of the bracket so the bracket can be swung away. The bowl then may be stuck to the gasket and that is sometimes a challenge. I’ve gently nudged them with a rubber mallet, but be careful, that can break the glass. I’ve heard of guys using heat, but I’m leery to try that because an open flame near gasoline. If you break the bowl, new ones are still available, but they run about $35. Some others here probably have tips for getting the bowl unstuck.
–
I’m thinking your gear oil was recently changed and a yellow gear oil was used. I know Amzoil synthetic gear oil is that color, and I’m sure some others are too. Since it leaked from the top of the gearcase housing with the motor on it’s side , either the driveshaft seal is leaking, or the shift rod O-ring. The driveshaft seal is at the top of the lower unit housing, just under the water pump. To get that seal out, you either need a seal puller, or, I get them out by heating the housing around the seal with a propane torch and then wiggleing it loose by prying with a big screwdriver. first you will want to drain the gearoil. The shift rod O-ring is hidden. Below is a link to how to remove it, thanks to Frank for posting this procedure – On your model, the bushing drives out toward the bottom of the housing after removing the lower half with the gears, etc. I have had to use propane heat on the housing sides to do this on some. You will need a new rope seal to reassemble the gear housing halves – just get a seal kit.

http://www.franksoutboardtools.com/shif … mover.html
–
There should be little or no gap between the compression release valves and the actuator that pushes on them. AS you pull the recoil, watch in the cutout on top of the recoil housing for the compression release linkage cam to follow the channels so the bar gets pulled, If the cam follows the channels properly, so the linkage moves, then it has to be pushing on the relief valves. Adjustment of the linkage is done by loosening the two screws where the two parts come together above the cylinder head and tightening them again while holding the linkage against the valves.

It appears you will learn a lot of new outboard repair skills by the time you are done with this one!
Dave

[harpua]

Man, pulling that rope feels weird. That compression piece moves up then over on the guide.

With the plugs pulled the starter turns that engine amazingly. When i put the plugs in and pull the rope it feels wrong. It feels restrictive.

In the mean time i picked up these and hope its enough to put some good battery to the starter. Anyone know a good link for wiring help? And do i even have a good solenoid there?Thanks

[harpua]

quote outbdnut2:

I have cranked these motors from a deep cycle trolling motor battery and it worked OK. When I’ve tried jumper cables directly to the starter, It’s tough to get the cable clamps to get a good, conductive bite on the starter terminal and a good ground, especially with the motor vibrating as the starter cranks the motor. On a battery, the jumper cable clamps dig into the lead terminals for more contact area.
–
The filter bowl has a metal bracket under it – the finger-nut at the bottom of that bracket unscrews and backs down to the bottom of the bracket so the bracket can be swung away. The bowl then may be stuck to the gasket and that is sometimes a challenge. I’ve gently nudged them with a rubber mallet, but be careful, that can break the glass. I’ve heard of guys using heat, but I’m leery to try that because an open flame near gasoline. If you break the bowl, new ones are still available, but they run about $35. Some others here probably have tips for getting the bowl unstuck.
–
I’m thinking your gear oil was recently changed and a yellow gear oil was used. I know Amzoil synthetic gear oil is that color, and I’m sure some others are too. Since it leaked from the top of the gearcase housing with the motor on it’s side , either the driveshaft seal is leaking, or the shift rod O-ring. The driveshaft seal is at the top of the lower unit housing, just under the water pump. To get that seal out, you either need a seal puller, or, I get them out by heating the housing around the seal with a propane torch and then wiggleing it loose by prying with a big screwdriver. first you will want to drain the gearoil. The shift rod O-ring is hidden. Below is a link to how to remove it, thanks to Frank for posting this procedure – On your model, the bushing drives out toward the bottom of the housing after removing the lower half with the gears, etc. I have had to use propane heat on the housing sides to do this on some. You will need a new rope seal to reassemble the gear housing halves – just get a seal kit.

http://www.franksoutboardtools.com/shif … mover.html
–
There should be little or no gap between the compression release valves and the actuator that pushes on them. AS you pull the recoil, watch in the cutout on top of the recoil housing for the compression release linkage cam to follow the channels so the bar gets pulled, If the cam follows the channels properly, so the linkage moves, then it has to be pushing on the relief valves. Adjustment of the linkage is done by loosening the two screws where the two parts come together above the cylinder head and tightening them again while holding the linkage against the valves.

It appears you will learn a lot of new outboard repair skills by the time you are done with this one!
Dave

Learning quite a bit this time around

[outbdnut2]

I suggest you buy an aftermarket manual that covers these old motors. It will save you having to wait for us to answer a lot of your questions. I have the Seloc manual for 1958-72 Johnson/Evinrude (works for Gale too) and have used it a lot. It also has exploded views and wiring diagrams. Below is a link to one place to buy it – info in it also applies to most OMC motors from 1954 to 1957 too because they are basically the same as late 1950s models:
Dave

http://www.iboats.com/Johnson-Evinrude-Outboards-1-5-125HP-1958-1972-Repair-Manual-1-3-Cylinder-2-Stroke-Seloc/dm/cart_id.683836766–session_id.905495581–view_id.373440

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