Mercury KD4
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Hard to tell without it in my hand, but if it were mine, I think I’d sand the badge down
best I could, paint it all red, then block sand the over the badge, leaving the red
where it’s suppose to be, and getting rid of the red where it’s not.
Saying so might be easier than doing it though.Prepare to be boarded!
Yes I have done that in the past with vw parts. Just thought it might be kool to leave original with the prop.
Another question. When I torque down the nut on the rope pull it still has play . What am I missing? And what are the six holes for?
I know the bendix and eisemann mags were different but this is my kd4. Mine is old school rope sheave, no recoil.
Is there back and forth play when you put the rope on?
three inside screw threaded holes are for the bearing puller or the three sided plate puller.
No sir. Tight. But I don’t know for sure if you’re missing parts or not. You hsve the raised letter rope sheave. Mine is smooth on top and bottom.
Others will know how to explain the difference.
Is there back and forth play when you put the rope on?
Maybe someone can show me a picture of the parts. This is what I have.
The Eismann version shows a crankshaft extension nut.
Prepare to be boarded!
Looks like you have the Scintilla version……
Prepare to be boarded!
Now it’s getting interesting. I have the scintilla version with the extension nut. When I put the rope pull on the square pegs go into the round holes of the flywheel. Tighten everything up and it rocks back and forth in holes? I can try and send a better picture of everything. Won’t let me send a video.
Video would have to be uploaded to YouTube, then linked here.
Prepare to be boarded!
Working on a KD4 power head that I picked up for parts. It’s stuck. Could use some advice on unsticking it. So far i have removed everything I can. Soaked it for 48 hours in penetrating oil. No movement. Should I try heat? Where can I beat on it to move. Is there anyway to remove the rods from the crank?
I would not beat. Don’t ask me how I know. Besides, anything you have to beat on to free up will more than likely be unusable anyway. Try evey concoction you can learn about and yes, try heat. I have had a twin powerhead soaking for a year now—nothing. I use auto trans fluid and acetone (50/50). It should be completely submerged in your choice of penetrating elixir.
Have also heard of cooking in a crock pot for some time. Worth a try. I firmly believe freeing up stuck parts is all about the freeze/thaw cycle. I have always wanted to cook a stuck piwer gead in an oven then transfer it to a freezer over and over. If I were a bachelor I would have tried it already.
Have also tried tapping ever so gently with a metal rod through the plug hole on the top of the piston and I believe it has helped in the motors I’ve unstuck. Again, carefully and gently.
But patience is key. The thing wants you to beat your will into it. It wants to exploit your stubbornness. Don’t let it.
It looks like the flywheel/mag is still on?
I stripped it down and took the end plate off the opposite end of the flywheel to have a look inside. Doesn’t look to bad. Re installed the flywheel just to have something to try and rock back and forth. I’m going to try soaking the whole head in different solutions for a while. I have use of a stove at work and a walk in freezer. What do you recommend for cook time. Sounds weird. 350 F for 1 hour?
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