Home Forum Ask A Member TN26 resurrection

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  • #39744
    vikkip
    Participant

      The float floats and the needle seals. Now to revisit those nylon washers, they are not sealing so well. Any suggestions on rejuvenating the fiber ones or what’s the best leakproof replacement?

      #39745
      cajuncook1
      Participant

        This information was obtained from the Poche Website.

        quote :

        Carb Cap Gasket Leakage after Re-install: Sometimes the carburetor cap gasket will leak a little on re-install. Run the outboard and allow the gasket to swell with gas and oil. It might also be that the float is stuck after the motor has not been run for a long time or the float was recently replaced. This usually will stop after a few minutes of running the outboard. If gasket continues to leak, the carb head screws might need re-tightening or the gasket might need replacement.
        #39751
        vikkip
        Participant

          cap gasket is good, it’s just all the bowl screws. I’m making thin fuel safe cork gaskets (I love hollow punches) to insert between the nylon and the carb.

          I took a little time to rebuild the carb on my daughter’s motorcycle, she’s off and running, so I can finish up!

          #39760
          vikkip
          Participant

            Problem.

            Started great, set the slow idle. Remember I’ve never used an outboard before so it’s all a learning curve for me. Water is churning, I see water spitting from up high. Unfortunately it’s from a steel tube that comes up and connects to the head. It’s leaking at the fitting on the bottom. I shut it down but it seems pretty hot. It did spit quite a bit of carbon out of the exhaust, which didn’t surprise me with the excess fuel in its past.

            What is the likely issue and how much harm have I probably done?

            #39761
            vikkip
            Participant

              Oh how I love manuals. I thought the water was supposed to spurt from a couple of holes on the tube by the exhaust pipe.

              #39769
              cajuncook1
              Participant

                You Tube videos of TN26 motors starting and running.

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-Ii22TMMeo

                In this video, Ben is running a TN28 (this motor has the universal magneto unlike yours). I am posting this one because it shows him adjusting the high speed needle at full throttle. After setting the high speed needle, then you slow the motor down to lowest possible without killing it and adjust the low speed lever down to the bottom right facing the motor.

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35kv1atTIRw

                #39771
                vikkip
                Participant

                  Those sound so sweet, and look like they move a little boat out quite sharply! I’m definitely not expecting to tow waterskiers or anything, but getting out to a fishing spot and back without having to help the Clinton by rowing will be a huge plus.

                  I have it roughly tuned in on slow and fast circuits, I can transition without stumbling or spitting. I figure the fine tuning is best done on a fully warmed up engine. I just want to get a little more time on it to be sure it’s good to go before hauling it up north and hanging it off the boat and trusting it to get me where I want to go and back.

                  And yep, that is where it’s spitting water. Had me worried, seemed like an odd place.

                  #39790
                  vikkip
                  Participant

                    time for some troubleshooting.

                    The engine starts very easily in the start position, but within a few seconds it starts to spit back from the port where the slow needle is, and from the carb throat. Enriching or leaning the mixture via slow needle both cause a momentary RPM increase, then spit and slowdown. Pumping the primer during a stumble causes a stall.

                    Tested again. Bogs on throttling up, stalls on throttling down in drive but idles okay in neutral. Really smoky, really smelly like too much oil, but I mixed TC-W3 at 16:1 in a gallon gas can. Some oil scum on the sides of the barrel and on top of the water once it settles, and a greasy coating on the lower unit.

                    The lower cylinder is still reasonably cool to the touch after this test run, but the gas tank and Ready Pull are hot.

                    Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEpSBAkpSvg&feature=youtu.be

                    #39828
                    vikkip
                    Participant

                      I removed the flywheel and found that one coil did not have sufficient clearance to the magnet hub so I set that to spec, it runs a lot more smoothly now. But after about 5 minutes of runtime, water started spurting out of two holes at the top of the driveshaft casting. I don’t think that’s supposed to happen. Looks like I have bigger problems.

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