1958 Lark 35

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  • July 20, 2015 at 9:28 pm #20485
    1946zephyr
    Participant

      I’m sorry to say, but you may have to pull the power head. There may be chunks of the impeller up in the water passages where the base gasket goes. If you fire the motor up with the thermostat and cover removed, you should see water come gushing out.

      July 21, 2015 at 1:17 am #20507
      flathead
      Participant

        Alright, sorry guys, I must be doing a lousy job describing this. When I take the T stat cap off, it blasts water out the top. Fleetwin, I cant post pictures so I’ll try to explain it again. There was 2 chunks of impeller stuck in a channel in the head. If you took the head off, flipped it over so your looking inside it, there is a groove, passage way, channel. I assume it’s for water flow. It’s shaped kind of like the number 8. There are 2 rectangular holes on the bottom. Again I assume for water. Just above those 2 holes, in the groove is where the rubber was stuck.

        July 21, 2015 at 9:40 am #20525
        fleetwin
        Participant

          US Member - 2 Years

          OK, so the impeller was stuck in the grooved cooling jacket inside the head towards the bottom, hard to say if this jammed/plugged up the cooling water flow. You may want to pull that core plug out again and really search both of those passages carefully before reinstalling the head.

          July 21, 2015 at 9:46 am #20526
          1946zephyr
          Participant

            Well, that’s good that water is getting up there. That’s the main thing. Hopefully no other rubber chunks aren’t lodged in other hidden areas.

            July 21, 2015 at 1:36 pm #20536
            flathead
            Participant

              I pulled the core plug already, nothing more in there. Do you think I need to pull the head apart? It looks like water flows into the compression relief chamber? I’m not sure I got that right though. If so, does that need to be pulled apart and checked?

              July 21, 2015 at 11:03 pm #20577
              fleetwin
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                Kinda hard to say whether it is worthwhile pulling the water cover (and compression relief chambers) off this head. I would think that if there was a problem, the chunk would be stuck in the inlet or outlet from that chamber and that you would be able to see it by looking at those spots in the head. Once in that chamber, I don’t think an impeller chunk could cause too much trouble.
                Again, I would examine that vertical tube in the head, along with the angled passage at the bottom of the head.
                Unfortunately, I am not too familiar with the water flow on this engine, perhaps someone else can chime in.
                You mention that there is plenty of water flow out of the thermostat cap when the engine stops pumping/overheating, so that should rule out some passages.

                July 22, 2015 at 12:42 am #20584
                vintin
                Participant

                  Sounds like a good time to put one of those infrared thermometer guns on it. A purchase right now may pay for itself.

                  July 31, 2015 at 6:30 pm #21333
                  flathead
                  Participant

                    Well, I think I have what I need to start putting this back together again. I’m using the head off a 1960 Johnson 40hp, it hasn’t been Heli-coiled or modified in any way that I can see. It’s flat, cleaned, ready to go. (I think) I have the torque specs for the head bolts, but I don’t have the sequence. Also, are there torque specs and sequence for the compression relief chamber? It’s #25 in parts list. Another question is, do I need to do anything special when I put the valves back in? As always, thank you for your help,Jeff

                    July 31, 2015 at 8:11 pm #21335
                    1946zephyr
                    Participant

                      Yea, I’ve done that once, but with a ’68 Lark powerhead. Nice improvement for a ’58 Lark.

                      July 31, 2015 at 9:36 pm #21338
                      chris-p
                      Participant

                        Start in the center, and spiral outwards as you go.

                        Start at 1/2 torque for a revolution, then 3/4 torque, then the final torque.

                        The compression relief valves have a gap of 020, or is it 010, Ill have to check the manual. Been a while since Ive gapped one.

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