Topic: 1959 10 HP Evinrude Sportwin – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 35 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 10 months ago by fleetwin.

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June 14, 2018 at 12:24 pm #10241
Buccaneer
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US Member
What would be the #1 cause of vibration in this motor?
What’s up with the red shift lever?

https://brainerd.craigslist.org/bpo/d/h … 34026.html

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June 14, 2018 at 1:13 pm #77889
frankr
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US Member
Vibration or Clatter? #1 cause of clatter is worn out wrist pins. Pre-1961 10hp motors are famous for that.

Never saw a red one. Looks like an Evinrude lever, but wrong color.
June 14, 2018 at 1:22 pm #77890
frankr
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US Member
If we really are talking about vibration, a broken or bent flywheel from using the wrong kind of puller would be suspect. And of course a mangled prop.
June 14, 2018 at 1:45 pm #77891
Buccaneer
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US Member
Thanks for the insight. I’ve emailed the seller asking if there’s
a "knock" associated with the vibration, as in rod knock, etc.,
and awaiting reply.
When the wrist pins go bad on theses, does that also mean
piston and / or rod damage?
Thanks.

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June 14, 2018 at 2:14 pm #77892
fisherman6
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US Member - 2 Years
I have 3 of these now and they are all excellent runners. That red shift lever has just been painted red. It is the correct lever. For 40 bucks I’d pick it up if it was close to me noise or no noise. I have never had one of these apart with wristpin slap to know what gave up. I’ll wait and see what others say about that.
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube
June 14, 2018 at 3:22 pm #77896
frankr
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US Member
Actually, the major wear is the wrist pin hole through the piston. I’ve seen them with so much slop, it is a wonder the pin didn’t fall out—yet.

Starting in 1961, the wrist pin diameter was increased, and the same bearing as the big motors was used. The parts can be retrofitted to older motors but you have to replace pistons, wrist pins, circlips, connecting rods. and wrist pin bearings. You get a much tougher powerhead when done.
June 14, 2018 at 4:04 pm #77898
dan-in-tn
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US Member
I believe the #378330 rod (replacement) that takes the wrist pin bearings & other parts mentioned will go all the way back to the QD-10. I have collected up several sets of this stuff. I have two motors to rebuild. One with broken crank because PO didn’t know how to remove flywheel. $15 motor. Said it ran fine, but needed coils? Upon tear down like FrankR said the piston wrist pin holes were shot!
The nice thing about this repair is I believe it will allow the motor to be run on a leaner fuel/oil mix. Might not go all the way to 50/1, but 32/1 or even 40/1 would clean things up nicely. Not too worried about the center main as later model engines were at 50/1 with that setup. JMHO

Dan in TN
June 14, 2018 at 4:06 pm #77899
Mumbles
Participant
The ’59 rod bushings are extended out of the rods slightly more than the earlier ones. This was probably done to try and keep bushing wear to a minimum before they switched to needles on the pins. If the rod bushings are worn, replacements can be made and fitted to the pin.

With worn bushings, you’d hear it before you felt it. Any bad vibration is probably from a bent prop blade. A later 9.5 prop will fit right on.

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June 14, 2018 at 4:14 pm #77900
dan-in-tn
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Thanks for the picture Mumbles. Always worth a thousand words. We were always told the wider I-beam rods helped spread the loads over a wider area. This was true wheather a bushing or rod bearings. Several HP motors got into problems over the years (later) with digging into the crank hardened surface. It was a problem OMC had to keep learning over & over!

Dan in TN
June 14, 2018 at 4:38 pm #77904
frankr
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US Member
My thanks also for the picture, mumbles. The wider bushing in 1959 helped with the pin-to-rod wear problem. However, the real problem was the pin beating loose in the piston bosses. The larger pin diameter helped prevent that by spreading the load over a larger area. And the roller bearing all but eliminated the tendency to rotate the pin back and forth.
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