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It is the same as running in neutral except for the danger of the spinning propeller. The best "Earmuff" is the one that replaces the by-pass cover above the anti-ventilation plate on the port side of the motor with one that has a garden hose connector . . . 😀
Vtfireman85:
You have a bunch of really knowledgeable guys trying to help you out. There are questions that need answering and you need try to follow a systematic approach.
First, post pictures of your forward gear, Reverse gear, clutch dog and pinion gear. Then you will need to reseal your gearcase.
You stated,
quote :its what I am wondering, clutch dog will be easy to diagnose and fix once I am out of the water, the other I wondered if it was also too lean, this engine is quite tight so I know its not leaning out around the crank shaft. id really like a prop wheel so I can try to diagnose this at home. I have also wondered if I am out of adjustment on the shifter, I am going to go look into that now. I would absolutely describe the high end issue as feeling like I ran over something and here in Squam lake, thats always a possibility. when god got done making lakes he put the extra boulders here, so it is especially alarmingI don’t know what you are referring to in regards to carburetor. Lean sneezing can happen in Forward gear, neutral and Reverse. A lean sneeze will become more pronounced(more prominent skip or hard jerk feeling) at higher speeds. Your carburetor has a low speed/idle needle number #30 and I high speed needle #58 in the diagram provided.
You never stated if you adjusted carburetor while you were in the water and on the boat. You dial in your high speed needle first then you make adjustment to the low speed/idle needle second.
Before you tear into the ignition, get a set of inline neon spark detectors and look for intermittent spark loss while the engine is running.
Like the others have stated, your motor should not be jumping in and out of gear in neutral.
Make sure these are your beginning carburetor settings:(Carburetor Adjustments for High speed and low speed/idle needles)
Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently (turn needle clockwise), then open 1 turn out(counter clockwise). Top slow speed = seat gently(turn needle clockwise), then open 1-1/2 turns out (counter clockwise). Once you have adjusted the idle/slow speed needle and the high speed needles, then snug up/ tighten (packing nuts) part numbers 30 and 58 with 7/16 open in wrench enough to feel resistance when you turn the needles, but not too much where it makes it very difficult to turn the needles by hand.
Setting the high and low needle valves properly:
NOTE: These settings should be done a large test barrel or on the boat in the water/lake!! It best to do these adjustment on the boat in the lake or on commercial size test tank. (You can damage your motor running it wide open in a small test barrel.)
(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn in (clockwise), waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You’ll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out (counter clockwise) the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you’ll find the smoothest setting.
(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turn in (clockwise), start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you’ll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn (counter clockwise). Within that 1/4 turn, you’ll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
Cajuncook, thank you for all the adjustments procedures, I’ll save those for future reference as well. I have reason to feel the carburetor needs further attention however I am awaiting a kit.
Meanwhile here are the pictures from my lower unit gearbox I believe there is a thrust washer missing, and I also believe that I have sufficient clutch dog wear to warrant replacement. Please give me your thoughts.
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