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OK, so, yes, I was revving it in neutral!
I didn’t think I was giving it a whole lot of throttle, but I won’t do that again. Learned something.
I hope it wasn’t ’cause I got it hot, but I’m going back to the basics which will mean a compression test.First thing I’ll do though is go through and check linkage and synchronization.
Sounds like this is probably not about a leaking gasket, but I’ll visually recheck for leaks.
What I did NOT do was use the special tool to line up the high speed nozzles when replacing the orings. I’ll buy the tool and put new orings in.
I did fully disassemble the carb, and let it sit in a pinesol / water solution for three days, in a warm environment. Got it really clean, but made no difference. Bought the jet tool; replaced the high speed jets w/ correct NOS parts.I went through the ignition again after the third failed lake test, and it seems to be right on. I’ll put that on the re-check list tho.
I ran it with the hood on, but part of the time with the front door flap hanging open; shouldn’t have been air-starved, right? Seemed to make no difference.
Old boat was a 16′ aluminum, 450 lbs; this one is a 19′ aluminum, 950 lbs. Heavier, but not so very heavy. Modified V-hull that goes about flat, so it shouldn’t be all that hard to plane, should it?
The prop is well below the hull; I don’t think it’s a drag issue.
I tried three tilt settings. They make a lot of props for it; I tried the biggest one, and the smallest one, with almost no difference. I don’t know anything, but it feels more like a motor issue than a hull issue. When I back off, I get a brief power surge that I wouldn’t expect from drag.I very much appreciate all the help!
Alan
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I’ll get a chance at it this weekend, and will post any findings / resolution.
Pulled the flywheel twice now; all was fine both times. No sign of slippage. Tourqued it back down to specs, clean and dry.
Spark wires are NOS, replaced between lake failure #3 and #4. Routed correctly to correct, recent Champion plugs. Replaced the wire from coil to points w/ NOS.
I’ll check general timing / sync first. I would be pretty excited to see that the distributor pulley has slipped, which would explain a lot.
As for the venturi tool, please let me know if what I need is pictured below.
Many thanks!
Alan
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The 75-80hp tool measures 1.250" where it fits into the carb bore. I made a couple of them back in the day.
quote fleetwin:OK, so you have had the flywheel off…Perhaps the belt timing is off. I don’t know if there is a different belt timing procedure for the battery distributor vs the mag distributor.
Yes, different mark to align the distributor pulley with.
Nice machine work, Frank R! Yours looks better than the one being auctioned.
I have a pretty good eye; I bet my nozzles aren’t very far off; glad to hear that’s probably not a major factor. I tried two props; don’t think they’d both misbehave in the same way, even if both had bad hubs.
I think the belt timing has been OK, despite the flywheel R&R. The belt timing is (I hope) the first pic. I timed the belt with the throttle closed; y’all please let me know if I got that wrong.
I’ve included pics of the carb with the throttle closed, and wide open. One pic has the distributor fully advanced; hard to see but the linkage is parallel with the triangular boss on the block. The last pic is the linkage, with the throttle wide open. The throttle keeps going after the distributor is fully advanced, (which looks correct, with the spring in the linkage).
The distributor pulley has not slipped on its shaft. I didn’t pry it off, but after pulling the points cam, (which was right side up) and nut, I can feel the key in the correct slot with a probe.
Anything else to check, before I reassemble the distributor and move on to the carb?
Many thanks!
Alan
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