6r74c missing parts ??

[fleetwin]

Hmmm, looks pretty buggered up for a motor that doesn’t have much time on it…Perhaps someone was yanking on the gearcase causing some of the damage…The driveshaft pin holds the seal components in place, so the flawed casting won’t affect the lower seal assembly one the driveshaft is reinstalled. Is this a salt water engine?
I dunno, if this was mine, and I was planning to keep and use it, would pull the powerhead….Just to make sure none of the cooling passages in the exhaust hsg are affected by the flawed casting. This job should only take an hour or so if the engine has been used in fresh water….

[crosbyman]

OK all thanks for all the insight on this new to me $60 gamble

btw it is not a salty … none around these parts really all fresh water stuff

i’ll update you folks in coming months on a new post

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[Mumbles]

If you decide to pull the powerhead, all you have to do is remove the seven small bolts holding it on and undo the fuel line at the pump and the choke/adjustment hardware. The powerhead will now lift off complete. You can even leave the starter rope hooked up if you lay the powerhead close to the motor itself. Removing the vertical mag/throttle control lever is optional.

On reassembly, see if one of the seven bolts is shorter than the rest. If so, it goes at the very rear of the motor. If a long bolt is used here, it can contact the cylinder causing it to distort. A bit of sealer is used on this bolt to as it goes thru the water jacket.

[crosbyman]

thanks I’ll take not of it sound easy enough

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[crosbyman]

thanks I’ll take note of it sound easy enough

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[garry-in-michigan]

About that 6 horse . . . 😀

[crosbyman]

thanks Garry I copied it all to picture files …and paper to be safe

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[crosbyman]

update…..
well I pulled the cyl head this morning

All bolts incl thermostat’s came out fine (no breaks) …

both cyl cavities looked fairly good (no scratches to speak of ) but showed a surface rust track about 1/8 wide at 2 o’clock on both walls .(from piston edge to cyl head gasket)

..no good probably 😉

tried moderate hammer and wooden peg blows to loosen them… no luck yet

both piston have their inlet/outlet ports closed (strange… that was also the case on my nice 9.5hp I loosen up 2 years ago)

I laid them up & horizontally and added some juice to soak both pistons for a few days

question… the thermostat came out ok along with a small circular metal disk and spring (one piece) about 1/2 inch long . is this part normally loosely fitted on the therm. body central pin on top ??

I hope that surface rust is limited to cyl walls . I,ll peek inside when I pull carb & reeds

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[Mumbles]

Is your t-stat dissolved from salt water use? There should only be the t-stat, its seal, and a gasket under the cover.

These stats are either stuck open or corroded away.

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[crosbyman]

I don’t have any salt this is a fresh water oldy…

the part that is loose is the little brass cup and the spring just like the one on the 9.5T stat .jpg ..

they both came out as one piece and likely slide on center post in the thermostat

.ho well I guess I’ll order another one `with the seal and make me a gasket

how about that rust on the surface of the piston walls critical or can I just buff it away ? ….assuming the innards are not rusted beyond repair

if so it will become a parts motor !! 🙁

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