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October 22, 2018 at 6:23 pm #84823
Thanks Jim.
I found a thread on this site from about 2 years about the Handifour. I believe it was PM2 who posted about common parts between the 2 motors and stated that there were 2 mag part numbers for the Handifour, an early version and a newer version after S#500. Mine is S#508 so I guess I got the newer version but that being said the coils do look different (smaller?) than the later zephyr couls.October 22, 2018 at 10:20 pm #84832The part number change may only be whether the coil is cloth or phenolic covered. As far as I know all pre-war coils interchange between the light4 and Zepher.
These pre-war coils had one pole piece attached to the coil and the other a separate part. There were two versions. The Early One had the coil removable from the core; on the later coils it was not removable.A little more on the difference on the pre-war and post war coils:
The post-war coils (Zepher or lightfour) have only two "nubs" that stick out the ends. They act as the pole pieces with the newly designed flywheel. So neither the coils or flywheels are interchangeable. But one could possibly do a complete magneto swap.October 23, 2018 at 1:51 am #84837The Aluminum Nickel Cobalt alloy magnet was developed by General Electric under a war time government contract in 1943. The feds held the patent and made it freely available to all.
Modern "rare earth" magnets are two types. One made with neodymium and the other made with samarium cobalt. they are approximately 55% stronger than Alnico and can be three times as strong as iron magnets. They are very brittle and corrode in any humidity, so they must be plated or sealed in aluminum or plastic to protect them from the elements. . . 😎
October 23, 2018 at 3:14 am #84848Re; coil information in the serial number sequence;
I would have gotten the information on coils directly out of the parts list book that covered all 1937 Elto and Evinrude models.
There are some common parts between the Handifour and Lightfour. BUT – The cylinder block on the Handifour is unique to it and it alone.
FWIW – on the rarity scale, I would put the Handifour near the top of the list, at least as far as Elto’s are concerned. Have seen many rare Elto’s in my time, but only know of three (mebbe four) Handifours that exist, including yours.
Hope this helps eh
Best,
PM T2October 23, 2018 at 2:14 pm #84858quote PM T2:Re; coil information in the serial number sequence;I would have gotten the information on coils directly out of the parts list book that covered all 1937 Elto and Evinrude models.
There are some common parts between the Handifour and Lightfour. BUT – The cylinder block on the Handifour is unique to it and it alone.
FWIW – on the rarity scale, I would put the Handifour near the top of the list, at least as far as Elto’s are concerned. Have seen many rare Elto’s in my time, but only know of three (mebbe four) Handifours that exist, including yours.
Hope this helps eh
Best,
PM T2I am hoping after copius soaking,time and patience this motor will run again. It’s nice to have a very uncommon motor in my collection. I’ve never "unstuck" this type of two piston jugs before.
October 23, 2018 at 7:59 pm #84879Phil
Some more points on this motor assuming its unstuck:
1. The carburetor has a primer pump and it must be working properly to easily start the motor. With the carb off; work the pump with some alcohol or gas in the bowl and make sure it comes out the orifice in the main air tube.
2. The main needle fits in a brass tube which has a hole drilled in its side. THe hole must line up with the inlet passage in the carb casting. Sometimes the tube can be misaligned and no gas can enter the carb. It can be twisted back in correct position.October 23, 2018 at 8:49 pm #84880Thanks for the pointers Jim. I have a few motors ahead of this one in the repair line but this one may get some special attention and bumped up.
I may try to find a big crock pot to fit the power head in for an extended long soak.October 23, 2018 at 9:21 pm #84882Heat is your friend in getting rusted motors unstuck. If you can find a way to bake the powerhead, it can help the penetrant get into places it might not reach at room temperature.
Hope it helps.
Best,
PM T2October 24, 2018 at 12:26 am #84888quote PM T2:Heat is your friend in getting rusted motors unstuck. If you can find a way to bake the powerhead, it can help the penetrant get into places it might not reach at room temperature.Hope it helps.
Best,
PM T2What is your favorite penatrent for loosening rusty motors? I have been using Gibbs for some time with good results.
I’m very leary of the tranny fluid and acetone mix. The flammability of it gives me pause.October 24, 2018 at 12:40 am #84890I like Kano Kroil or PB Blaster for loosening rusty nuts, bolts or stuck motors. Some folks swear by Marvel Mystery Oil for freeing stuck motors.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings." -
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