Johnson Model A flywheel removal trouble

[willyboy]

Yes Mumbles,just not as much as the one you had pictured.

[stanley]

The original set up was that the coil had two brass tabs on the underside.The wires went through the Bakelite ferrules and had a brass spring with a cap on one end.The spring had one end stuck into the wire and the cap was shoved against the tab when the wire was pushed into place.Finally the tar was poured down around everything to hold it in place and insulate.The wires have usually been replaced in the past.All kinds of creative ways were used to get around the problem of digging the tar out carefully and replacing it.Try hooking a wire onto what looks like a contact in the hole and see if you have spark.

[The Boat House]

• This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by The Boat House.
• This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by The Boat House.

[willyboy]

Thanks Tubs,it looks like the coil and parts are original as they look like the pic you posted. Unscrewed the bakelite caps and cleaned the copper contact spring and brass stud,cleaned some of the gunk off of the copper plate in the bakelite tubes and reassembled all. Going to tighten the flywheel down and check for spark tomoro,got my new repro cloth covered wired installed. Hoping for some snappy blue lightning tomoro! Also managed to get hold of 7 nos c-7 spark plugs,of which this model used. I need to find some copper compression rings for the plugs as they didn’t come with any but still got a decent deal on them. Not much left to go to hopefully make this a runner,clean the varnish from inside the fuel tank and make a new inner copper muffler and should be ready for a test drive.

[kevinrude]

quote Mumbles:

Make up a little nut and bolt system as in Wedgies picture to match the threads on your crankshaft. Tighten up the two nuts on the bolt and then run it down snug on the top of your crankshaft making sure the bolt has bottomed out on the crankshaft. Support the weight of your motor by the flywheel and then hit the bolt hard like you mean it. Don’t play around. Give it a hard hit with your hammer. The flywheel should pop right off. Don’t worry as you won’t damage the threads on the crankshaft doing it this way.

By the way, this is page 87. ☺

OK, I want to make sure I have this correct. Is this right:
(1) the bottom of the bolt needs to rest on the top of the crankshaft
(2) the 2nd nut needs to be half on the bolt (roughly) and half on the crankshaft (roughly)
(3) any requirements for the first nut? should it be tightened to the top of the bolt threading, or is this not necessary?

Thanks again!

[david-bartlett]

Kevin,

The nuts should be jammed together and tight on the bolt, effectively making the knocker a one piece tool. Then snug on to the crank until the bolt is tight against the end of the crank.
Then hit it.

[steveh]

Kevin, also note that the tar insulated the wires/connections. If you’ve taken the tar out (like I did), you’ll probably find that the coil shorts to the mag plate. If so, make a note here and I’ll tell you what I used to fix the issue on my A-45.

[Author]

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