Home Forum Ask A Member 1956 Johnson 30hp Motor Won’t start But Spark Plugs have Spark!

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  • #322292
    JACQUES
    Participant

      sorry to sk… got the  free service manual bible downloaded  .. ?

      https://www.socalaomci.com/library/johnson_service_manual_10th_edition.pdf

       

       

      Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

      #322389
      reivertom
      Participant

        US Member

        That’s 60 to 65 foot pounds, if that’s the correct torque value.

        #322480
        Tubs
        Participant

           

          You’re all wrong. Seems the next generation has decided its not foot pounds but “pounds feet”. “We use pound-feet (lb-ft) instead of foot-pounds (ft-lb) for torque because it accurately describes the physics of a rotating force. While math technically lets you multiply numbers in any order, the phrasing reflects what is being calculated: applying a pound of force perpendicular to the end of a foot-long lever.” There has to be millions of manuals  over the last 150 years that have to be corrected.  Its still foot pounds in the boathouse.   

          A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

          1 user thanked author for this post.
          #322483
          T….in Wisconsin
          Participant

            US Member

            Right you are…..they can all go lb/sand.

            #322488
            rhalbert10@outlook.com
            Participant

              US Member

              I am cleaning the carburetor now.  It appears that the my original float valve needle does not have a groove on the top like the one in my kit – which also includes a funky wire retainer.  Which do I use?  My parts drawings don’t show that wire retainer…

              #322514
              RICHARD A. WHITE
              Participant

                Lifetime Member

                I am cleaning the carburetor now.  It appears that the my original float valve needle does not have a groove on the top like the one in my kit – which also includes a funky wire retainer.  Which do I use?  My parts drawings don’t show that wire retainer…

                The one with the wire retainer is better …in my opinion…as it positively pulls the needle down even if the needle is oil stuck….not a fan of the rubber tipped needles.

                http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
                classicomctools@gmail.com

                #322546
                rhalbert10@outlook.com
                Participant

                  US Member

                  OK – thanks for that tip on the float valve needle.  I finally found a video and was able to put the one on with the wire retainer – didn’t know how that worked!

                  A few final questions as I am almost totally back together.

                  • Slow-Speed-Metal-Bushing
                    First, around the Slow Speed Needle/housing.  In my diagram it shows this threaded metal bushing (303939).  I did not take that out when I took the carb apart and there is not one in either carb kit I purchased. Here is what it looks like in there right now:  Slow-Speed-Actual.  I assume that is what is in there recessed from the top.  Do I need to replace that or just as is?  Also, it shows 2 of the other bushings (43-123 or 307583) – the ones I got in my kit are actually cork – is 2 the number to follow here?
                  • Second – the high speed needle housing shows 4 bushings (also 43-123 or 307583).  Is that the correct number?  Is 3 or 5 bad, and it has to be 4, or is there some play in this? (and in the slow speed too btw?) High-Speed-Bushings

                  I think these are my last 2 questions to get it back together and put back on the motor – then HUGE fingers crossed.  Of all the things through this process, the only thing that REALLY stood out was the condition of the fuel filter and the fuel inside the glass bowl.  Makes me wonder if that was significantly affecting fuel flow and therefore keeping me from starting.

                  Thanks again for all the help.

                  Rich

                  #322591
                  Don
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    Those darn bushings around the low speed needle are a royal pain in the butt.  Often wonder why the carb was designed this way

                    #322602
                    rhalbert10@outlook.com
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      I am kind of assuming that once that metal bushing is in it doesn’t come out except on rare occasions.  At least that is my thinking since they don’t include it in the carb kits.

                      #322657
                      rhalbert10@outlook.com
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        Well, after a long few days, progress has been made!!

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