Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1956 Johnson 30hp Motor Won’t start But Spark Plugs have Spark!
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JACQUES.
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June 17, 2026 at 11:45 am #322292
sorry to sk… got the free service manual bible downloaded .. ?
https://www.socalaomci.com/library/johnson_service_manual_10th_edition.pdf
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
June 18, 2026 at 7:36 pm #322389That’s 60 to 65 foot pounds, if that’s the correct torque value.
June 19, 2026 at 9:04 pm #322480
You’re all wrong. Seems the next generation has decided its not foot pounds but “pounds feet”. “We use pound-feet (lb-ft) instead of foot-pounds (ft-lb) for torque because it accurately describes the physics of a rotating force. While math technically lets you multiply numbers in any order, the phrasing reflects what is being calculated: applying a pound of force perpendicular to the end of a foot-long lever.” There has to be millions of manuals over the last 150 years that have to be corrected. Its still foot pounds in the boathouse.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
1 user thanked author for this post.
June 19, 2026 at 10:07 pm #322483Right you are…..they can all go lb/sand.
June 19, 2026 at 10:40 pm #322488I am cleaning the carburetor now. It appears that the my original float valve needle does not have a groove on the top like the one in my kit – which also includes a funky wire retainer. Which do I use? My parts drawings don’t show that wire retainer…
June 20, 2026 at 8:11 am #322514I am cleaning the carburetor now. It appears that the my original float valve needle does not have a groove on the top like the one in my kit – which also includes a funky wire retainer. Which do I use? My parts drawings don’t show that wire retainer…
The one with the wire retainer is better …in my opinion…as it positively pulls the needle down even if the needle is oil stuck….not a fan of the rubber tipped needles.
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comJune 20, 2026 at 8:13 pm #322546OK – thanks for that tip on the float valve needle. I finally found a video and was able to put the one on with the wire retainer – didn’t know how that worked!
A few final questions as I am almost totally back together.

First, around the Slow Speed Needle/housing. In my diagram it shows this threaded metal bushing (303939). I did not take that out when I took the carb apart and there is not one in either carb kit I purchased. Here is what it looks like in there right now:
. I assume that is what is in there recessed from the top. Do I need to replace that or just as is? Also, it shows 2 of the other bushings (43-123 or 307583) – the ones I got in my kit are actually cork – is 2 the number to follow here?- Second – the high speed needle housing shows 4 bushings (also 43-123 or 307583). Is that the correct number? Is 3 or 5 bad, and it has to be 4, or is there some play in this? (and in the slow speed too btw?)

I think these are my last 2 questions to get it back together and put back on the motor – then HUGE fingers crossed. Of all the things through this process, the only thing that REALLY stood out was the condition of the fuel filter and the fuel inside the glass bowl. Makes me wonder if that was significantly affecting fuel flow and therefore keeping me from starting.
Thanks again for all the help.
Rich
June 21, 2026 at 10:08 am #322591Those darn bushings around the low speed needle are a royal pain in the butt. Often wonder why the carb was designed this way
June 21, 2026 at 1:08 pm #322602I am kind of assuming that once that metal bushing is in it doesn’t come out except on rare occasions. At least that is my thinking since they don’t include it in the carb kits.
June 22, 2026 at 3:07 am #322657Well, after a long few days, progress has been made!!
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