Home Forum Ask A Member Backfire/misfire thru carb

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  • #213593
    Beno
    Participant

      IMG_20200905_194306

      IMG_20200905_194321

      IMG_20200905_200559

      #213598
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        Making great progress

        #213603
        Beno
        Participant

          IMG_20200905_212436

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          #213608
          Beno
          Participant

            IMG_20200905_213809

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            #213612
            Beno
            Participant

              ok, I found a flywheel puller and popped the flywheel… looked nice inside, there were 4 flat head screws and keepers, I had to re-bend each keeper to stop them from grabbing onto the trigger so hard… was odd. all 4 were wrong? noone noticed before now that the trigger couldn’t move but me?

              the flywheel nut is bigger than 1 1/4″ whats the correct socket (im making due with a strange grey 36mm I have now but its touch n go)

              and the big question.. whats the correct torque for the flywheel nut?

              #213618
              fleetwin
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                OK, well I’m not sure what picture I missed…But, that upper main is not installed with its proper hardware… I see one of the sensor coil plastic bushing clamps (upper right) clamped down improperly and facing in the wrong direction… There is supposed to be four clamps, four smaller machine screws that thread into the upper bearing. Needless to say, the clamps point in towards the crankshaft. The clamps will usually keep the plastic bushing from rotating in the upper bearing, this is normal . The sensor coil assembly spins inside the plastic bushing. The OMC moly lube is used to lubricate the brass/bronze pilot bushing inside the sensor assembly. Use regular outboard oil to lubricate the plastic bushing. The correct flywheel nut torque is: 105 ft. pounds.
                No comment on the home made puller rig, will just say don’t get hurt. You will need a heavy ring gear holder to torque the flywheel…
                http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=6799ea59-4d96-43e7-88b6-fa36e884bdd6 This is the link to the BRP parts look up, you can find the turbo jet break down in here…

                #213647
                Beno
                Participant

                  Sorry I missed taking a pic of the flanges as I found them, all four were mounted correctly, Just too tight, had to modify all 4.. strange.
                  in the pic you saw I had already removed 3 flanges and one in the upper right I had just turned around.

                  I was able to hold the flywheel with 4 pair of vise grips strategically located, I guessed and torqued the flywheel to 140lbs (35 over).. seems to be ok for now tho.

                  That sanford n son Flywheel puller has come thru in the past, I keep it way in the back of the tool cabinet in a box labeled “stale crackers” and never admit ownership to anyone.

                  I had to pull the flywheel twice tho, after reading online that the flywheel and crack mating-surfaces had to be immaculately clean, and I had reassembled mine with oil everywhere. pulled and cleaned, then torqued.

                  next step is the fuel tank, replace fuel line, canvas hatch cover and seats!

                  #213682
                  Beno
                  Participant

                    hooked up the garden hose water. engine runs cool. isnt’ happy about running till it gets warm… does little kickbacks.

                    Canvas started and finished in one night..

                    #213683
                    Beno
                    Participant

                      IMG_20200906_182143

                      IMG_20200906_182148

                      IMG_20200906_195341

                      IMG_20200906_202746

                      This is what happens when you use regular wood in a marine environment.

                      #213690
                      Beno
                      Participant

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