Help getting my 67 Evinrude 3hp started

[frankr]

So the wire itself is open? Probably at the plug boot end, there is a spring in there that penetrates the insulation to contact the wire core. Pull the boot off for a looksee. A good dose of WD-40 will make it come off easier.

[Elecmuso]

The boot seems very tight – not all that flexible. I assume it should just pull off leaving the plug connector connected to thewire?

[Elecmuso]

Well I pulled at the boot/wire until something gave way. Wire came out. So then I was able to extract the spring / pin part. I was also able to confirm that the wire coming from the coil was indeed OK and that the spark plug connector had in fact not been making contact with the wire core. So I assumed it was just a matter of shortening the wire by say 1/4″ giving the insulated wire a nice clean cut, then drove the pin with pliers back through the core of the wire. Checking with a multimeter confirmed that the circuit from coil to spark plug was no longer open circuit. Pushed the plug spring connector back through the rubber boot and reconnected the plug.

Now should I be able to test the plugs are both now getting a proper spark, by re-fitting the flywheel and turning it? Presumably this turning has to be done at sufficient speed?

[Elecmuso]

Well I can’t get a park from either plug now. At the beginning I had spark on both (one was a bit weak). Don’t know what I’ve done!

[lindy46]

I guess you realize that the wire is disconnected from the front coil in your photo? Those coils have been replaced but condensers and plug wires look original. Can’t see the points. If it were mine, I’d replace the condensers and wires (and maybe the points ) or at least dress and clean the points. Make sure points are set to. 020″ at the high point on the Cam.

[frankr]

Elecmuso wrote:

Well I pulled at the boot/wire until something gave way. Wire came out. So then I was able to extract the spring / pin part. I was also able to confirm that the wire coming from the coil was indeed OK and that the spark plug connector had in fact not been making contact with the wire core. So I assumed it was just a matter of shortening the wire by say 1/4″ giving the insulated wire a nice clean cut, then drove the pin with pliers back through the core of the wire. Checking with a multimeter confirmed that the circuit from coil to spark plug was no longer open circuit. Pushed the plug spring connector back through the rubber boot and reconnected the plug.

Now should I be able to test the plugs are both now getting a proper spark, by re-fitting the flywheel and turning it? Presumably this turning has to be done at sufficient speed?

Only commenting because you asked. Yes it has to be turning at sufficient speed. Use the notch in the flywheel for a knotted rope wrapped around the groove and give it a pull as if you are trying to start it.

[crosbyman]

anything can happen with flexing wires….
why not just star from the beginning and redo the electricals …

pull the mag plate
change wires with new 7mm wire(metallic) core plug wire….. reinstall the mag plate
inspect polish clean the points and set at .020 on the high point of the cam …or invest in new ones
change the plugs and set at .030
reinstall everything check for continuity from plug booths to ground to confirm 4-7koms
condensers may be good for now….
install the flywheel , spin with a drill with plugs not installed and check for good snappy spark if bad try new condensers

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

• This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by Mumbles.

[fleetwin]

Sounds like ;you may have gotten in too deep here. Both coils look fairly new, clean and regap the points like Frank says. I hesitate to advise ripping the mag plate all apart to replace the wires, you mentioned having spark on both cylinders….I’m guessing you realize the air gap on those coils needs to be reset once you pulled them off. I’m sure you don’t have the locating ring, so line the coil lamination up flush with the mag plate machined surfaces just below the coil legs….Be sure to tighten everything down again…..The flywheel will need to be properly torqued also, which usually requires a strap wrench…A loose flywheel nut will shear the key, and over tightened nut will damage the flywheel….
Did you pull the fllter/valve out of the tank yet? Have you had a look inside the tank?

[Elecmuso]

lindy46
Yes I realised I had the wire disconnected at the time of that photo. Did so just to measure the continuity of the plug lead. It is properly back in place now

fleetwin
No I did not realise that the air gap needed to be reset once the coils had been off. I will try what you suggested re coil lamination.

I have a feeling the lack of spark may just be because I am not turning the flywheel with sufficient speed.

[Elecmuso]

I reassembled the pull start with gas tank then rested it on top of the chassis without bolting it in so that I had a means of turning the flywheel at a better speed. Spark was there on both plugs.

Also roughly checked the coil alignment / airgap using the method fleetwin mentioned though it was already pretty close.

So I’ll get back to cleaning up the tank, replacing the gas line and adding an external fuel filter (part on ebay you can recommend?).

Fleetwin, I will use a torque wrench so that I can bot that flywheel down properly!

• This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by Elecmuso.

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