Home Forum Ask A Member 1958 Johnson FD-12 18 HP help needed

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  • #6869
    desert-troller
    Participant

      Guys & Gals too,
      I have a 1958 FD-12 I got from an older man (80ish) for $50 2 weeks ago in excellent cosmetic condition, no dents in cowling, paint fading somewhat but was taken care of for a long time. He had a "mechanic" do some work and it never ran again. I found the carb float in upside down, the plugs gapped about .075, the points gapped at wide open and the coils completely split open and in pieces. Compression is strong, you have to put some effort and weight into it to pull start but it did run for a few seconds so I know I have a great motor to bring back to life.
      Here’s where I ran into a wall, I am converting it to electric start and can not find any pictures on the web of how the setup looks when done. I have found the bracket but it appears to be missing a part on the front that the air silencer and cowling mount onto to. Is there an additional bracket that bolts to the starter bracket with a mounting hole for the airbox and a stub sticking out towards the front for the rubber bushing to go on that holds the cowling in place?
      Another item, does anyone know what parts can be purchased nowadays to convert it to electronic ignition? The Atom pieces are no longer around and I’m not sure about some of the other ones out there as they don’t really sound like they are compatible with this engine. What I am wanting to do is use a DTDP switch to switch between points and electronic ignition to get the best of both worlds for starting and trolling and efficiency.
      Lastly, the old fellow told me that the weep holes in the lower unit on each side about halfway between the upper and lower fill ports were welded over to prevent something or other, I didn’t catch what he meant. He said back in the day that’s what they used to do with them. Anyone heard of that?
      Any and all help is appreciated, especially any pictures of the starter motor bracket setup!
      Thanks

      #56778
      retiredoz
      Participant

        US Member

        Picture of the bracket used on FD-10 – should be the same on yours. If yours doesn’t look like that, maybe it’s off an Evinrude ?

        #56780
        chris-p
        Participant

          You have an evinrude bracket. Either find a Johnson one, or rig that up with a pin.

          Regarding filling the weep holes….no one that actually knew what they were talking about did it! NO offense to him of course, but seen it done many times, all caused me nightmares to repair. Those weep holes allow the gearcase to drain. Filling them causes them to fill with water, then crack in the frigid temperatures. No possible good comes from filling them. Have fun drilling that out.

          A few of us have converted a few motors. You can find the atom modules from time to time. Maybe someone on the forum has a couple they would spare. I have also tried the Nova modules. They are junk and will fail, don’t bother with them.

          If the motor is sound, you don’t really need to convert it however. I only did it on a couple motors that the owners didn’t want to change the top bearing on. Their decision, not mine.

          #56785
          frankr
          Participant

            US Member

            Not only an Evinrude bracket, but the wrong year(s) too. It is for newer motors with fiberglass cowlings and no silencer. The correct one for your Johnson is probably going to be hard to find.

            That OMC Universal Magneto was used on millions of motors. Motors that earned their worldwide reputation for reliability. Why change a good thing?

            #56789
            fisherman6
            Participant

              US Member - 2 Years

              If the motor is in the condition you describe, I would run the universal magneto and never look back. I love that system and would not change a thing about it. The weep holes.need to be open just like Chris said.
              -Ben

              OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

              #56791
              Steve A W
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                Frank Robb makes some excellent tools for tuning up
                the Universal Ignitions.
                Take a look at his website; http://www.franksoutboardtools.com/
                I also highly recommend the OMC double line fuel fitting jig.
                It makes changing the "O"rings in the fuel fitting a breeze.

                Steve A W

                Member of the MOB chapter.
                I live in Northwest Indiana

                #56792
                crosbyman
                Participant

                  Canada Member - 2 Years
                  #56803
                  fleetwin
                  Participant

                    US Member - 2 Years

                    I agree, the OMC universal magneto is simple and reliable, why would you want to change that?
                    The only issues that can cause problems are oil leaks under the flywheel, or a crankcase pilot bushing that is worn causing excessive sideways mag plate slop.

                    #56808
                    Mumbles
                    Participant
                      quote Desert troller:

                      The Atom pieces are no longer around and I’m not sure about some of the other ones out there as they don’t really sound like they are compatible with this engine.

                      As Chris mentioned, the Nova II ignition modules will fail in these magnetos but the red ATOMS are what you want. If you are thinking of going with the ATOMS, send me a PM as I have a few extra NOS ones here I’ll probably never use.


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                      #56809
                      RICHARD A. WHITE
                      Participant

                        Lifetime Member

                        And if you want to troll, I HIGHLY recommend Frank Robb’s timing tool, you have no idea just how slow even these bigger motors will go when timed properly.

                        http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
                        classicomctools@gmail.com

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