Home Forum Ask A Member 1958 Johnson FD-12 18 HP help needed

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  • #56871
    Mumbles
    Participant

      Camera settings and lighting will definitely affect the photos colors .

      The paint on my ’58 resto was leftover DuPont from a ’58 CD I had done. It came from my auto supply and I remember it was a genuine FORD color match. I sure wish I had kept the codes as it is extremely close to the original Johnson paint and you can’t tell the difference in the sunlight. The motor looks a lot better in real life!

      Say Chris, does that flywheel look right to you? I kind of think it’s from a later twenty horse motor.


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      #56872
      chris-p
      Participant

        Looks similar to mine?


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        #56873
        chris-p
        Participant

          I used NY Marine paint.


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          #56875
          fisherman6
          Participant

            US Member - 2 Years
            quote Mumbles:

            Camera settings and lighting will definitely affect the photos colors .

            The paint on my ’58 resto was leftover DuPont from a ’58 CD I had done. It came from my auto supply and I remember it was a genuine FORD color match. I sure wish I had kept the codes as it is extremely close to the original Johnson paint and you can’t tell the difference in the sunlight. The motor looks a lot better in real life!

            Say Chris, does that flywheel look right to you? I kind of think it’s from a later twenty horse motor.

            Hey Mumbles,
            When I was a kid my mom had a ~1978 Mercury Monarch that was that color. IDK if that helps with looking up a paint code for it or not. I had forgotten about how close that color was to holiday bronze until I read your post.
            -Ben

            OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

            #56881
            Mumbles
            Participant
              quote Chris_P:

              Looks similar to mine?

              Look at the difference in the ring gears teeth. The classics had the larger taller teeth. I think I have the wrong flywheel on it. 😕

              #56889
              chris-p
              Participant

                Yeah I see it now that I zoom in on your picture. Interesting that it works like that! Good to know.

                #57103
                desert-troller
                Participant

                  I picked up a timing tool and the coil locating ring from Frank. If you have not seen these tools you are truly missing out on something here. The quality is outstanding! I have seen and messed around a little bit with an OMC(?) tool for timing, not even close because of no taper as Frank’s has. It’s almost impossible to screw it up with this one. I ask Frank if it was okay to mention this on here and brag some. As he said, "You may share, but I only have a couple of them left." I’ve got a couple of the ATOM modules on the way from Mumbles, looking forward to getting those. Grinding away the welds and drilling out the weep holes is a PITA as was mentioned here. Used a dremel to take away excess weld to minimize damage and try to find the original holes. May have a line on the bracket and starter, we’ll see…
                  Mine doesn’t look like the ones above, yet. It’ll be there, takes time and love for the old motor to look that good!

                  #57109
                  Mumbles
                  Participant

                    Another fine tool he makes (or made) is the fixture to hold the dual line fuel connector while servicing the O rings. Life would be tough without one doing it any other way.

                    Are you drilling out the drain holes in the 18’s gearcase? The deep one, behind the shift rod, always seems to get plugged with crud and it turns into concrete or something. I have several drill bits which have been extended to get down to the bottom of the hole. Just be careful you don’t drill all the way thru into the gear cavity. I did that once and only once and it took some thinking how to save the casting with what was readily available at the time.

                    #57123
                    desert-troller
                    Participant

                      I haven’t seen one of the lower cases that wasn’t welded so I don’t know how deep that hole goes to free it up. How deep is it from the outer case to the bottom? Here are a couple of pictures taken prior to removing the excess welding material.

                      #57135
                      Mumbles
                      Participant

                        Those aren’t drain holes which have been welded up. That area should be smooth as the gears are on the other side.

                        Have you had the gearcase apart? There might be signs of something letting loose in the past.

                        If I remember correctly, the hole near the prop in your first photo is the drain I was referring to earlier. The hole in the second photo isn’t a drain but was possibly used by a fixture in the factory for machining purposes.

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