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I have been going thru items on the subject motor, i.e.,
starter, carb, magneto, which are now ready to go.
As long as all these items are off the motor, is it worth
it / recommended to pull the power head and replace
the o-rings on the upper and lower crankshaft?
The magneto was somewhat "oily".
I see the top has one o-ring, bottom two (different sizes).I was thinking it would be nice to pull the power head
and clean and paint the corroded engine pan, but
not sure if I want to spend over $30 for one can of spray
paint, on a motor that I don’t even know if it’s a "keeper".
Anyone find anything close in a spray can for Sea Horse Green?
I see the lower unit has already been repainted, but the wrong shade.I attempted to pull the engine over via rope to check
compression. The flywheel has a very poor "rope notch",
if that’s what it even is, therefore I had problems getting
good pulls. Managed three poor pulls for each cylinder,
and ended up with 85 and 90 psi. I would think this engine
should be over 100 psi. What say you?
Is it any harder to pull the power head on this rig than
one of it’s smaller brethren, other than the extra weight?
Thanks
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I will have to attach a photo from my phone since it will be easier than trying to send the photo to my computer…yad yada yada…gimme a sec, I will also send you a PM.
These things are awesome motors and if you have the ability to go thru the whole motor, you wont regret it, your wallet might look at ya funny but it is worth it…
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comJP, Someone had installed newer coils, points, and condensers. It has
pretty blue coils. Not sure what vintage they are. Will have to dig around
for that photo of the coil display.
Both set of points were a little pitted on the "moving" side of the points.
The condensers both tested at .26 mfd’s. Perhaps that’s the cause?
I’ve noticed high readings before on brand new Sierra condensers.
Anyway, I replaced with new .20 caps from Digi-Key.
No oil on my mag plate now.
Regarding the paint, when I looked last night at FN/A paint, perhaps
via EBay, it was $21.95 for a can, but then $9.95 for shipping.
Wonder if they’ll be at Tomahawk this year?
Thanks!quote jpatti75:Bucc,Yes, do change those o-rings…at least the top. I just did it on my Rd-13 and it was an easy job. The hard part was cleaning off all the dried fuel on the magneto. If it is leaking a decent amount of fuel on the magneto, you risk dowsing your points and killing the spark. The compression numbers are low, but that wouldn’t concern me too much until you give it a good run. If it has been sitting a while, the rings could be sticking a bit. Put some Marvel Myster Oil (recommended by Lloyd Lautner) in your tank,it does a good job cleaning out the internals.
As for cheap rattle can paint, I haven’t seen a close match for ‘55 Sea Horse Green. If you’re willing to spend $20, you can get a perfect match here:
http://effena-co-llc5.mybigcommerce.com/paint-johnson/
(Keep in mind your paint is faded, so it may still look different)JP
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Might I suggest, that you contact Barry and see if he is going as I am pretty sure he would bring your order to you..
The blues are from the early 70’s I think here is the photo:
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comOmc went to the "square" o-rings a few years after your motor was built. OMC calls it a "quad ring". They are better suited to a sliding shaft than an o-ring. The shaft is able to move up and down within the bearings, and the carbon seal must slide on it in order to stay in contact with the bearing.
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