Home Forum Ask A Member Mcculloch 4hp no start

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  • #75182
    joesnuffy
    Participant

      I think Bills advice is right on target. Do you have a different coil you could try? its possible the plug wire from the coil might be grounding out especially when you move the lever. Also are the flywheel magnets clean not rusted that can cause a weak spark rusty magnets on the flywheel clean them up with sand paper.

      I did find some pictures of a motor for sale like yours on ebay it helps me to understand how this motor is disassembled. The auction with the motor is here and the pics of power head can be seen. Whats interesting is the big plate bolted to motor looks to be an access plate or the motor may have been used for different applications like a lawn mower also but around plate it might be sucking air.

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-69-70-Se … 0507.m3226

      Joe

      ps a picture of flywheel like yours with rusty magnets.

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-69-70-Se … GQ&vxp=mtr

      also take a look at the rust on the ends of the coil laminates (I call them shoes) where the magnets go by them they need cleaning up with sand paper also being careful not to take off anything but the rust. That’s the kind of stuff that weakens spark.

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-69-70-Se … Id&vxp=mtr

      The coil also has 3 wires one goes to the points the other to ground. They also need to be clean and brigtned up even the grounding screw that holds wire down needs to be cleaned up. The actual spark plug wire also needs to be inspected to make sure its not cracked pulling the motor over and having someone looking in the dark might help to see if you have arcing from the plug wire to ground. Also that plug wire looks like it goes down through the metal might not hurt to make sure its insulated if its being squeezed through metal.

      #75185
      john8504
      Participant

        Here is a video of what my spark looks like. The new plug seems to be very erratic and the old ac plug seems to keep the spark together.

        https://youtu.be/tmdeNisBuIg

        #75187
        john8504
        Participant

          I did notice a small break in outer insulation at the boot. However, I can see that the inner wires are shielded inside the sparkplug wire.

          #75188
          joesnuffy
          Participant

            The AC plug looks to be firing pretty well but you are moving the spark plug wire around while testing so it could be grounding.

            I also noticed when you changed plugs no spark or weak spark. I worked on a Johnson 9.9hp this winter for a friend down in florida no spark on the bottom cylinder turned out to be the coil was not grounded where the ground wire goes to ground. I had to clean up even the screw. With this engine not even hitting we need to get a good constant spark.

            Try taking that plug that’s not firing well and try and see if it will fire well using a lawnmower to test it if so then I think when you get it to fire with this outboard it will be a lot closer to hitting. 1. Clean the magnets on flywheel if their rusty, clean the laminate shoes, 2. Clean the ground wire, wire to points, make sure condenser is grounded well and possibly insulate your plug wire with something maybe a piece of hose or something then re-check your fire with the weak spark plug. An air cooled engine will not normally use a really hot plug so the fire has to be right and trying a lawnmower to see how it sparks that weaker plug might be helpful.

            I hope that helps,
            Joe

            #75190
            Mumbles
            Participant

              Has it been mentioned yet to check the condition of the wire clip inside the boot and its connection to the spark plug wires core?

              The wire clip terminal inside the boot is prone to corrosion from moisture and the pin on the clip can rust or corrode completely away causing a weak or no spark situation. Since the spark plug on this motor is exposed to the elements, I’d check it before going any further on this motor. If the second plug had a weak spark, it could be from the clip inside making an intermittent connection with the wires core and when the wire is bent to its installed position, there may be no electrical continuity at all, or in other words, no spark.


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              #75192
              billw
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                Okay, well, you’re testing the spark with a spark plug, in both cases. A regular spark plug gap of more or less .030" is not enough to really test the system. It is easier for spark to jump that gap under regular, atmospheric pressure than it is under 90 psi. When you put the plug in the engine, and put fuel and compression to it, it may NOT fire. This is why the spark has got to jump at LEAST….at the very, very LEAST…..3/16" in the open air. A quarter inch is better, and very commonly obtainable.

                If you don’t want to make it jump the 3/16", then at least try closing the actual plug gap down, WAY down, to .010" and see if the engine will fart on that.

                Also, if you’re trying to start it with the mag lever position in that video, that’s still not far enough over to port. Should be 3/4 of the way over to port. And, when in that position, the actual throttle plate inside the carb should also be opening about 3/4 of its travel.

                Long live American manufacturing!

                #75202
                john8504
                Participant

                  I ordered a spark tester and it should be in Friday. Waiting for it to arrive.

                  #75224
                  joesnuffy
                  Participant

                    Since your waiting on a spark checker. You could be doing these while waiting their just suggestions to see if you can improve your spark.

                    I’m going to post a few tools and tricks I use to get a hot blue spark every time I have been taught many of these but they pretty good ones.

                    I am posting a pic of a new old stock techumseh coil here which is most likely like yours notice notice their is no plug wire in it like the new Chineese jobs these days. Their is a metal spike in the center of where the plug wire goes and their normally shaped like a wood screw so you can turn your plug wire into it while pushing it in and it bites in and won’t just pull out. That is normally a place where the wire inside the plug wire copper strand rusts, burns off etc.

                    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-tecumseh-2 … XQySpROMFx

                    If you try and unscrew your wire from your coil while gently pulling it out then once its out take a look to see if the metal inside the spark plug wire is burn or rusted. Napa might sell you a piece of spark plug wire 7mm with a copper core like 1 footlong if not I normally shorten the wire on the coil end like 1/4-1/2 of an inch depending on how long it is and how much I can cut off without making it to short then I screw it back into the coil.

                    Now on the other end where the spark plug boot goes I normally spray it with wd-40 or some type of oil to help the plug wire to pull out of boot. I also use a small screwdriver and pushing the metal spring clamp outward while pulling on the spark plug wire. Sometimes the plug wire just rips off but I then work the metal spark plug clamp out of the spark plug boot with a screwdriver and some needle nose pliers. I shorten it on that end like 1/4 inch and leave a little of the copper wire hanging out so when I re-assemble it in the actual wire is touching the spark plug clamp see pics. This helps a bunch with energy delivery to the plug The pics will help you see it. If you can’t get a new piece of spark plug wire at least use electrical tape and tape up what you have after you make repairs on both ends of the plug wire.

                    I am also showing you a cheap spark plug gap checker their available at places like harbor freight I have the one in picture adjusted to like 1/4 inch of fire jump the alligator clip goes to ground.

                    Clean all the magnets on flywheel, clean the ends of the laminate shoes that’s the part that almost touches flywheel while it spins should be 3 spots, clean your ground wire terminal and the screw where it goes thru the condenser make sure condenser is grounded well also you can see those wires in the picture of the coil. Clean the terminal from the coil where it connects to your points.

                    Hope that helps,
                    Joe


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                    #75232
                    jeff-register
                    Participant

                      US Member - 2 Years

                      Please look inside the coil for a point of termination, should have PIN IN THE CENTER, no connection causes an ark & the pin goes away. H.V. is weird to work with & odd glitches. It’s been said, Get a meter on electrical parts. Check 4 crank side slop too. It would at least sputter with starting fluid
                      (& timed correctly) Any crankcase leakage is not good,
                      Edit: Hold your reed plate to light to check reed seating after cleaning

                      #75469
                      john8504
                      Participant

                        @joesnuffy. So if I understand you correctly, turn and pull the wire from the coil and it will come out? Then look to see if it is burned or whatnot? Do I just reverse steps to reinstall said wire into coil? Also what do i secure wire with?

                        Also I am not quite sure why my name hasn’t shown up red yet? Hmmmm.

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