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This is a 1940 Elto Handitwin that’s been sitting in the back of my garage for over 30 years. Recently, I decided to get it running (youtube.com/shorts/QG_82x0OUrQ) and then fix it up. Some of the parts were hand polished, some of them were powder coated (Prismatic Powders Super Chrome Plus), and the rest were painted (VHT Satin Gray/Silver SP995 Engine Enamel). The stand was made from sapele and ash. I’m currently restoring a 1936 Ford pickup, and I’ll place the motor in the bed for shows.
I believe that finding your model number (stamped into the crankcase casting on the starboard side of the block) will prove your motor to be a model 432, making it a 1933 Evinrude Sport Single rated @ 2.2 HP with a maximum engine speed of 4000 RPM.
Everyone wants to call these a “Super Single” but that designation was reserved for the Elto version of this motor with battery ignition.
FWIW – I have no clue what most of that stuff is in the post immediately above this one, on my screen it shows up as a bunch of gibberish with the odd partially recognizable phrase throw in.
Anyway, here’s a shot of where to look for the model number information, the six-digit number 101134 is just a casting number, the number you want is above it.
Best,
PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
Its going to turn out to be a model 432 which would make it a 1933 Sport Single, since its an Evinrude.
For it to be a Super Single, it needs to be an Elto with battery ignition.
1933 is the first year for this motor and is the only year the Sport Single had the tank in front. In 1934, they switched it around to behind the flywheel.
Your model number will be stamped into the crankcase casting on the starboard side of the motor, as show here
Hope this helps.
Best,
PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
Topic: Super Elto Light Twin
Currently in the process of restoring a very nice 1927 Ruddertwin.
I have taken the ignition coil off, but need to rebuild it. I have ordered a universal military coil, among other parts for it. Just looking for some good recommendations for plug wires, timer and battery cables.
THanks!
1952 Blue Streak "B-Stock Runabout" - 1952 Mercury KG7Q
1955 Feather Craft Vagabond - 1956 Mercury Mark 55ETopic: 1928 Elto Quad
This is a 1928 standard Elto Quad that I’ve had for about 12 years. It came out of the Fishers Landing NY area. When I brought it home I looked it over and cleaned it up a little and put the coils aside for rebuilding later. Didn’t think at the time that it would take me 12 years to get around to doing that, but s*** happens eh.
These pictures represent the motor as found
This one is after I gave it a bath with Castrol Super Clean
Then I put the coils and rotten wiring away
PM T2
He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
OOOOOOHHHHHHH!!!! I get it now! You’re only supposed to bump compression to the left, but the engine will fire while the piston is past TDC and start running CLOCKWISE.
“It is never necessary to crank motor over compression”
Makes sense now. THANKS A LOT!! That was very helpful!!!
–Rob
You’re close. You want the plugs to fire exactly when you let go of the knob. You let go of the knob where you get the best bounce. When the motor starts it will be running with the spark happening at past TDC. But the spark happens before TDC on your starting swing, the plugs fire, the flywheel change the direction your spinning it, and the motor keeps running forward. Try this. Turn the flywheel clockwise till it stops as compression begins. Now slowly bring it back counterclockwise, listen for a snap. That’s is the points making contact to fire the plugs. You want that “snap” to happen just when you’re letting go of the knob. If you go back to the video of me starting mine, I may have had the timer too far to the left, and the points weren’t “snapping” and I wasn’t getting spark. When I moved the timer slightly to the right it took right off.
There is no air control on the early motors. If they had carburetor it would be wide open all the time. The speed is controlled solely by the timing. Slow – the points fire past TDC. As you advance the timing to TDC, and beyond, the motor runs faster. Once you go past the point where its increasing in speed, bring the timer back a tad. That’s full speed. Any more and your over advanced.
Edit – I was think other Super Eltos. Because of the gas tank you cant over advance a Ruddertwin.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
1 user thanked author for this post.
I posted this in the current projects forum too, but thought I’d put it here as well so non-members can see it and maybe get further infected by the bug for old iron.
I did most of this work awhile ago but was doing more research on the topic and I don’t think many have seen a video of it being started, so here it is…
1931 Elto Super C. The model number is 613, serial number is 0002. The 613 model designates it as an Inertia start motor, as were about 31 other motors that Evinrude-Elto built in 1931-32. Anyway, this is the only known example of a survivor Eclipse Aviation built Inertia starter that was originally installed at the factory. (There is one other starter in existance, but it got transplanted or retrofitted onto a 1930 outboard).
Its a joy to start it. Sort of. Noisy as heck, and the starter grinds on forever after the motor starts until all the built-up inertia in the rotating assembly is finally spent. Motor sounds good tho. Anyway, enjoy the racket.
PM T2
He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
I did most of this work awhile ago but was doing more research on the topic and I don’t think many have seen a video of it being started, so here it is…
1931 Elto Super C. The model number is 613, serial number is 0002. The 613 model designates it as an Inertia start motor, as were about 31 other motors that Evinrude-Elto built in 1931-32. Anyway, this is the only known example of a survivor Eclipse Aviation built Inertia starter that was originally installed at the factory. (There is one other starter in existance, but it got transplanted or retrofitted onto a 1930 outboard).
Its a joy to start it. Sort of. Noisy as heck, and the starter grinds on forever after the motor starts until all the built-up inertia in the rotating assembly is finally spent. Motor sounds good tho. Anyway, enjoy the racket.
PM T2
He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
Topic: 1925 Super Elto
Just picked this up at a meet…
1925 Super Elto “J” Model. Tank is in very nice condition, other than obvious rust. I will blast all of that off once it warms up a bit.
Wondering a good starting point for this one. The gear case was kind of a mess, and I thought it was completely thrashed. I took the prop off to find it was only the prop shaft seal that had gone bad.
I would like to restore/polish this one back to looking cherry, and any advice would be great.
I have ordered a military coil and I have some OMC standard condensers, so I will be rebuilding the coil. I presume it is bad, have not tested it yet however.
Does anyone have any advice on the prop shaft seal? Not sure where I am going to find one.
The timer is also very damaged, when I pulled the flywheel the timer ring was broken, and so was the casting where the rotating mechanism is held.
This is the damaged timer, but the points seem to click when I manually spin the rotor
^^ Damaged prop shaft seal
Front view of the motor. Seems to be in nice shape for being 100 years old.
1952 Blue Streak "B-Stock Runabout" - 1952 Mercury KG7Q
1955 Feather Craft Vagabond - 1956 Mercury Mark 55E
