Best cork carb float coating

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  • vintin


    Replies: 580
    Topics: 19
    #68414
    quote CamaroMan:

    VinTin – that sucks man! Ive read of one or 2 folks who have had this happen, however it seems many people have very good results. I think one issue is the old fuel absorbing into the cork and leaving behind a varnish residue which might cause this. I read on a vintage outboard site that he used por-15 many times with great success but pointed out there could be issues with old varnish on the cork.

    Anyway – thanks for the update and sorry to hear! I might try some on fresh cork and soak it in 87 gas for a few days – Did u let it dry for 3-4 days minimum before using?

    I did not de-grease the float before coating but am sure it was completely dry when coated and the POR-15 had probably a week of drying time before install and use.

    I’ve not given up on POR-15 yet though and may modify how I use it and give another float a test.


    jim-moffatt

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 225
    Topics: 33
    #68418

    Here is my 2 cents. I soaked bare new corks in ethanol gas mixed with outboard oil for 3 months. The cork did not absorb anything and floated just like when I first immersed it. Coating is just not necessary. I have been running unsealed floats in many motors for many years with absolutely no problems.


    spike


    Replies: 37
    Topics: 16
    #68421

    Jim Moffatt, I agree with your statement. People now days always seem to over think everything. Back in the day they never had all of this " crap " and things worked! Old school rules!!!


    The Boat House


    Replies: 4549
    Topics: 111
    #68422


    I also have cork test going on.
    I used the smallest cork I could find,
    drilled a hole in it, and then weighted
    it down to promote saturation. There
    is no indication any fuel has been
    absorb after almost 7 months. Jim Moffatt
    has previously stated when they started
    using cork, being a living substance,
    it could be subject to fungus growth.
    That was the reason they coated floats.
    Made sense to me but I want to prove it.
    If it hasn’t sunk by 5-30-2020 it should
    be clear they don’t need to be coated.
    I believe the cork is treated today
    to prevent the growth of fungus .


    outboardnut

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 930
    Topics: 419
    #68425

    Don’t we still have to coat a float to prevent fungus?
    I would think gasoline would kill fungus.
    So the end of the story is run your engines often.


    The Boat House


    Replies: 4549
    Topics: 111
    #68427


    Cork is now treated to prevent
    these kinds of problems. You
    wouldn’t think anything could
    live in that environment but
    watching the removable of a
    fuel oil tank on TV they
    explained that the sludge that
    can collect in the bottom has
    some type of live fungus or
    bacteria living in it.


    amuller


    Replies: 1055
    Topics: 163
    #68431

    Does anybody know why OMC stuck with cork floats for so long? Most small engine carbs seem to have switched to brass floats (and later plastic) by the 1940s.


    amuller


    Replies: 1055
    Topics: 163
    #68432

    This is what The Carburetor Shop (http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm) has to say:

    *************************************

    CORK FLOATS

    Many of the less expensive carburetors from the beginning up through about 1940 were originally equipped with floats made from cork. Most of the floats were coated with orange shellac, and then the finish was baked, creating a finish fairly impervious to the gasoline of the day. A few of the manufacturers did not coat their floats, and used a cork material that seemed to work fairly well with the gasoline then being sold.

    The gasoline of today cuts orange shellac like a hot knife in butter, and also will permeate the natural cork material!

    This poses a severe problem for the restorer. It is not economically feasible to attempt to mass produce brass floats to replace the cork floats. Also, the company producing the poly-nitrofill foam floats has been most un-cooperative unless orders of very large magnitude are placed with them. We are currently machining float pontoons from this substance, to be used with the original float arm.

    For those who are independently wealthy, individual brass floats can be made. This also may be a solution for a retired machinist with access to a good machine shop. This is a very time-intensive remedy, expensive if one must pay for the time.

    For the rest of us, it becomes imperative to attempt to use a replacement cork (or foam) float, and seal the cork (or foam) against the permeation of the gasoline. The procedure we at The Carburetor Shop are currently using is as follows;

    (A) Detach the original brass arm from the original cork float.

    (B) Clean the arm (we use a glass beading machine)

    (C) Attach the arm to the polynitraphyl pontoon included with this kit.

    (D) Submerge the pontoon, and the portion of the arm in direct contact with the pontoon into a product called ‘POR-15’. This product is available from POR-15, Inc, P.O. Box 1235, Morristown, NJ 07962. They have a website at http://www.por15.com. READ THE DIRECTIONS. ACCORDING TO POR15, ONCE THEIR PRODUCT DRYS, YOU MUST WEAR OFF ANY YOU SPILL ON YOU! I BELIEVE IT!

    (E) Remove the float from the liquid and slowly rotate to eliminate any bubbles.

    (F) Suspend the float with a suitable hanger, and allow to air dry for 72 hours prior to use.

    This procedure seems to be working with the current mixture of gasoline.

    If anyone comes up with a better procedure, we would certainly wish to be informed!!!

    *******************************************

    Appears to me that this float discussion is like oil/gas mixtures discussion: there will never be an end to it.


    nj-boatbuilder57


    Replies: 286
    Topics: 41
    #68433

    Here’s my take…and while trying not to sound like a smartass, I assure you…..the solution is simple: "preventive maintenance". Every 2 or 3 years, I change the float & float valve, clean the nozzle & needles, etc.

    Expecting the float, or anything else, to just "work forever" is kinda unrealistic, no matter what we paint / coat / bake it in. Seems to me we have 3 choices: 1.) replace it when it fails [in 5 – 10 years], 2.) replace it proactively every couple of seasons, or 3.) come up with these "ingenious solutions to non-existing problems".

    I’m in the "keep it simple" camp.


    outbdnut2

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 1705
    Topics: 91
    #68435
    quote Jim Moffatt:

    Here is my 2 cents. I soaked bare new corks in ethanol gas mixed with outboard oil for 3 months. The cork did not absorb anything and floated just like when I first immersed it. Coating is just not necessary. I have been running unsealed floats in many motors for many years with absolutely no problems.

    I replaced cork floats on the gas gauges of two OMC 6 gallon non-pressure tanks. I used wine bottle corks and did not coat them. The both sunk in about a month. Maybe there are genetically different types of cork, some that soak up gas and some that don’t??
    Dave

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