OMC vs HF flywheel puller

[Steve A W]

Just a little quick tip.
On my puller bolts I put electrical shrink tube on them
so there is only 7/16 inch of threads showing.
Can’t run them in too far with this.

Steve A W

---

Attachments:

Member of the MOB chapter.
I live in Northwest Indiana

[frankr]

quote WetWillie:

I figured as much. Sorry I wasn’t able to join you guys.

Now about all the responses to my update posted at 8:25. I really appreciate the number of responses and the helpful comments. I don’t feel belittled, Chris, but I appreciate you asking. 😉 Like an idiot? Yes. But that’s by my own doing and not from any of the responses.

I threaded the original bolts in, Wedgie, until the threads were no longer visible. Less than an inch would be my guesstimate. The puller was level and parallel, to the best of my ability, every time. I used an extra washer w/smaller ID under each washer to increase the surface area contacting the bolt head.

My 2nd mistake of the day was threading the replacement bolts in further than 7/16″. Probably an inch total. FWIW, there was little to no resistance as I threaded them in. I doubt I damaged anything under the flywheel but won’t do it again. 7/16″ from now on. 😉

Frank, I’ll get another set of Grade 8 bolts in the morning, thread them in 7/16″, tighten the pulley bolt as far as I feel comfy with and, per your suggestion, give it a whack with a hammer. What do I pry the underside of the flywheel up against while I hit it?

THANKS to every one of you that has responded!

Consider the anatomy of the thing. The crankshaft is able to move up and down a bit in its bearings. That is by design. When you strike the puller bolt you are attempting to knock the shaft downward out of the flywheel. If the shaft is resting downward by gravity, it has nowhere to go when you strike it, so the attempt is in vain. What you are doing is raise the whole kaboodle upward so the shaft has somewhere to go (and out of the flywheel). It makes no difference how you raise it. A pry with a big screwdriver is most convenient with most people. Use whatever solid and sturdy fulcrum point is handy to pry against.

[wetwillie]

Understood, both principle and procedure. I thought you might have a suggestion as to what to pry against when I’m lifting up on the flywheel.
This morning, I bought another set of bolts, used Steve’s idea of marking the length with shrink tubing (excellent & thanks) threaded them in and applied some serious force to the center bolt.
I took your suggestion, Frank, one step further and put a ratcheting tie down strap under the flywheel and over a rafter located directly above. I then tightened up the strap until the motor began to lift the stern up. 🙂 I then heated the area surrounding the crank/flywheel interface until it was hot to the touch. I gave the puller bolt a couple of good solid whacks. Incredible that nothing happened. 🙁
The flywheel remains under tension from the puller and suspended from the overhead rafter. Un-friggin-believable!

[frankr]

Hmmmmmm, I guess one could say that flywheel is ON there.

[wedgie]

quote Steve A W:

Just a little quick tip.
On my puller bolts I put electrical shrink tube on them
so there is only 7/16 inch of threads showing.
Can’t run them in too far with this.

Steve A W

Excellent idea Steve. I had used masking tape in the past, but heat shrink is a way better idea :ugeek:

Willie, It may be that (as Frank has experienced) someone has used loctite on the taper 👿 Do you have an impact driver? Sometimes the rattling of the impact helps break things free.

[frankr]

You’ll never hear me say this, but maybe it is time to make an exception. Do as you just said, but get a bigger hammer and whack the hell out of that center bolt. And don’t tell anybody I said that.

[wetwillie]

LOL
Thanks Frank.I believe I will do just that.
My lips are sealed. lol
Al

[vintin]

quote Wedgie:

quote Steve A W:

Just a little quick tip.
On my puller bolts I put electrical shrink tube on them
so there is only 7/16 inch of threads showing.
Can’t run them in too far with this.

Steve A W

3/8 OD poly tubing also screws right onto the threads using a pair of channel lock pliers. Makes a nice shoulder but not one you want to tighten up against as it will move.

[theodore]

Sometimes on my cars suspensions, I have a situation like this where there’s a tapered pin in a bore. Use an air hammer with a blunt tip on the center bolt. All that shaking and vibrating makes it pop loose.

[bullie]

Maybe I am not picturing this flywheel correctly but how are you getting under the flywheel with a strap without also getting under the plate? I may not have right idea at all but it seems the strap would be pulling up on the magplate and not the flywheel.

[Author]

Posts