Evinrude 5.5 won’t start

[labrador-guy]

KM sometimes those cracked coils will spark.  But those pieces of plastic flake off and get stuck in the strangest places!   Ebay has lots of them for sale.  All kinds of prices.  CCI has been a good one.  Most of the members here like the coils marked made in Germany.  I don’t think those are manufactured anymore.  I sometimes will buy the entire used coil backing plate, points and condenser if I can tell it has the German coils.  Marine engine.com has them also.  No deals there though!  Those coils were the same for many years.  ’51 to ’72  maybe more.

dale

get’em wet…..don’t let’em set!

[Sam M.]

kmead wrote:

I don’t know any part numbers (maybe it doesn’t matter much for these old engines?) so it would be very helpful if someone could direct me to the actual parts I need.

I know that the coils for your engine were used on many models of OMC outboards, so search for OMC Universal coils.  No part number is needed.  Just match up the shape, not colour.

kmead wrote:

I’m thinking since I’ve got the flywheel off I might as well replace the plugs, points, and condensers too.

If your spark plugs are the right type and aren’t the newer taller type that require removal of the lower cowling to fully remove them (assuming your lower cowling is the same size as the OMC-made Gale Buccaneer 5hp’s one from a couple years later) then I would not reccomend replacing them unless something is wrong with them.  It may take some time to find new and correct ones that aren’t too tall anyway, and if you do, you’ll then have an extra set of spark plugs to bring in the boat for backup.

[JACQUES]

coils are available on amazon   some don’t like them.  Cracked coils on your engine usually… indicates a low hour engine.  Condensors likley bad !   points may need justa touch up and carbon cleaner blast.. set for .020  see video

a new impeller is needed  and  requires power hear removal    not a big deal  .. check gear oil for water /replace anyway. some folks don’t reseal the GC  they just replace the oil mid season.   a  tricky job the  first time around ! (utubes available)

https://youtu.be/SVOedhzPP7M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be

 

 

 

 

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[kmead]

I have removed the flywheel and the armature plate (if that’s the correct

name) and cleaned up all the grit from the deteriorating coils. It’s almost like someone poured sand in the engine.

I cleaned up old dried grease from these two parts. Is there a particular kind of grease I should use for reinstallation?
Thanks.

 

[kmead]

I am not sure if the photos are showing up. Website seems buggy, at least on my phone. So I’ll try again. I cleaned up old dried grease from these two parts and I’m wondering if there’s a particular kind of grease I need to reapply.

[JACQUES]

I have always  applied a bit of the conventionnal outbord grease  (usually blue colored)

 

btw  pics are clear 🙂

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kmead

[kmead]

Great. Thanks!

[JACQUES]

I usually line up one  “base  ring”  bolt hole with one  mag plate bolt hole using a  sishkabob stick.. after the first bolt is  in   the rest line up  easy.     Base ring is  flat side up    taper  side down    ..I think…. but if you are not certain wait for confirmation by others .   oil the   cam oiler  wick ! I use 2 drops GC oil

 

…clip is $$$$ !  don’t loose it

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[JACQUES]

the black ring looks like a carbon seal that goees on top of the drive shaft

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[Don]

Here is a breakdown of all those seal parts that go on top of the driveshaft.   This is extremely important and can lead to powerhead failure if not installed correctly.  The little oring and cork gasket should always be replaced.  The large SS washer/cork gasket may be stuck to the bottom of the powerhead…

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1958&hp=5.5&model=CD-15&manufacturer=Johnson&section=GEAR+CASE+GROUP

[Author]

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