- This topic has 54 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 6 days, 19 hours ago by
.
-
Perhaps I should start a new thread, but I have some questions regarding the gear case.
I’d like to replace the oil seal beneath the impeller, but I am not sure how to go about it. The driveshaft housing that contains the seal moves a little bit, but I am hesitant to pry too hard on it in case there’s something else holding it down. If I could remove the driveshaft housing, then I could press out the oil seal and replace the gasket under the housing as well.
??? seems like the drive shaft is out in you picture no ?? in any event that base plate over the lower GC cavity can be lifed out and the seal “attacked” from the other side. When all done install a new gasket and rebuild the pump. while doing all this check the spring clutch (shock absorber) underneat and make certain it is not streched! max lenght was 6”11/16 if I recall correctly but check.
if yours us streched compress it spot weld it polish it and use bass shear /drive pin
see ai reply
One experienced restorer noted that when the shock absorber becomes longer than normal due to age or impact damage, it can rub on the bearing housing and cause the engine to feel tight when assembled. He specifically stated:
“6 11/16″ is the length I was aiming for.”
If you are rebuilding a 1954-1964 5.5 HP Johnson or Evinrude, that dimension is a useful reference.
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
1 user thanked author for this post.
Got the oil seal out.
More questions! As you can see in the attached photo, the shift rod is bent. It’s supposed to be straight, isn’t it? It certainly appears straight in diagrams. Also, when I turn the driveshaft clockwise, the propeller spins counterclockwise (when viewed from behind) which to me indicates that it’s in reverse. Should I be able to move the shift rod up and down by hand while the lower unit is separate from the rest of the motor? It is absolutely tight and unmovable.
i doubt the bend will be a nuisance hard to say if it is design intent unless sombody can clarify. you should be able to shift fw… if you try harder check shifter handle if it pulls up or pushes down for FW.
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
1 user thanked author for this post.
Got the oil seal out.
More questions! As you can see in the attached photo, the shift rod is bent. It’s supposed to be straight, isn’t it? It certainly appears straight in diagrams. Also, when I turn the driveshaft clockwise, the propeller spins counterclockwise (when viewed from behind) which to me indicates that it’s in reverse. Should I be able to move the shift rod up and down by hand while the lower unit is separate from the rest of the motor? It is absolutely tight and unmovable.Nice work getting that seal out, this can be a very difficult, yet delicate job indeed! Look at the bottom of the upper seal housing, make sure the lower driveshaft has not been rubbing/grinding on it. If it had, you may need to do something with that darn spring clutch which may have expanded. I wouldn’t worry much about the slightly bent shift rod as long as it is not distorted/bent where it rides through the shift rod bushing/oring inside the gearcase.
1 user thanked author for this post.
no need do not fix what works
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
1 user thanked author for this post.
Can’t remember if you have had this powerhead apart/intake manifold off. If so, both gaskets should be replaced. Do not use sealer on the gaskets, and don’t mix them up. I usually just coat the gaskets with some regular marine grease prior to installation on the intake manifold.
1 user thanked author for this post.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.