Home Forum Ask A Member 1957 Evinrude Big Twin 35 Skeg interferes with gears.

Viewing 10 posts - 31 through 40 (of 70 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #253330
    boscovius
    Participant

      I had not considered the matter of chamfering.  I examined the washers I have and I don’t see any evidence of that.  I do see a slight difference in ID, so I may not have the exact same washers.  But do I have the correct washers?  IDK.  Frankr mentioned a difference in OD.  My washers are definitely the same OD. and thickness.

      I have the correct washers coming, so we’ll see in a week or so what difference that makes.

       

      #253347
      crosbyman
      Participant

        Canada Member - 2 Years

        is this in anyway related to your issue ??

        Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

        #253349
        frankr
        Participant

          US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

          crosbyman’s post brings up an interesting point——any chance that motor has the wrong driveshaft installed?  Incorrect spines length or overall length could be pushing down on the pinion, due to insufficient end play in the drive shaft.

          #253351
          crosbyman
          Participant

            Canada Member - 2 Years

            see next page comments on shaft/splines rd19

             

            is it a shaft/spline issues or wrong  “new” GC  for the rd19 shaft ???       maybe the GC does not  fit the long shaft ??

             

            just greenlighting… I just happen to  hit this in the Red book ….&  never worked on a RD   GC     🙂

            Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

            • This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by crosbyman.
            #253356
            boscovius
            Participant

              Crosbyman.

              Thank you for this information.  I’m at work right now but I’ll take a look tomorrow and see what I can see.  I had not considered the shaft as being a variable.  Now it looks to me as if I do have the correct washers after all and now I know the correct way to install them.  It very well may be that in my ignorance I had the washers installed in reverse order.

              Now I’m guessing at this, but is there a part number somewhere on the upper lower unit housing that will indicate to me which of those driveshafts is appropriate for my gearcase?  I have the short shaft configuration.  My outboard is a 1957 but I’m sure it doesn’t have the original lower.

              • This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by boscovius.
              • This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by boscovius.
              #253361
              frankr
              Participant

                US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

                It sure does get confusing.  I say the thing to do now is try dry-assembling the gearcase without any driveshaft.

                #253407
                boscovius
                Participant

                  Yes, it gets confusinger and confusingerer.

                  I reassembled the gearcase without the drive shaft and with the washers in the correct order.  I was able to turn the output shaft.  Emboldened by this, I reinstalled the drive shaft, only to find the system seizing up again.  Yet, not completely, there was some improvement.

                  I set about looking into the possibility of an incorrect driveshaft.  What I discovered is that the working unit has a driveshaft top that looks like the one pictured in the first thumnail.

                  The one that’s in the unit that isn’t working is the second thumnail.

                   

                  I’ve learned a lot since I started putting this old motor back together some ten years or so ago.  Probably forgot half of what I learned when life got busy and I had to put it aside for a while.

                  At any rate, it looks like I may have the wrong drive shaft.   Which leads me to a question.  How hard would it be for a machinist to fabricate these shafts?  I see a lot of used crappy ones on Ebay.

                  What I gather from the info I now have, and some online searching, the drive shaft in my working lower unit is the original 303871, which was ok to use in the earlier RD10 units up to RD-18.

                  I searched for and found what appears to be a very nice specimen of 303871 drive shaft for a very good price.  We’ll see how that works out.

                  • This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by boscovius.
                  • This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by boscovius.
                  • This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by boscovius.
                  • This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by boscovius.
                  • This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by boscovius.
                  #253423
                  crosbyman
                  Participant

                    Canada Member - 2 Years

                    I fyou don’t buy one….  &    if the lenght is the same surely a local machine  shop could  cut some  splines for a reasonnable price .

                     

                    the extra spline portion is certainly not   very long ….

                     

                    if I was up the creek at the end of the  dirt road…. I would whip out my grinder  and try to cut  some  splines allowing the shaft to slide up a bit more .  and it looks like you are up the creek  🙁  with that shaft anyway !

                    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                    #253430
                    Geer Pyron
                    Participant

                      I’ve run into the exact same problem at least twice now. On two different motors than what you are working on, but it’s worth a look.
                      First, make sure only the splines are lubed on the upper part of the driveshaft. And same applies to lower end at pinion gear if the pinion gear is closed on one end. If you put lube on the ends of it sometimes the driveshaft will not go all the way into the crankshaft. The thick lube seals it and the air can’t get out preventing the drive shaft from inserting all the way in.
                      Most recently I found a oil drain screw interfering with the reverse gear once the gearcase was all assembled. It was a ‘79 35 horse OMC.  I took that thing apart 4(!) times before I found the issue.
                      it was a strange problem and only occurred after I had replaced the existing 3 washers with just one, but it didn’t occur to me at the time that someone had had the problem before and solved it with using extra washers on that drain screw. The point is I guess is that it is something simple. Hopefully. Maybe.
                      G

                      JMGP

                      #253445
                      Mumbles
                      Participant

                        It sounds like the driveshaft is a tad too long. Measure the distance from the O ring groove to the top of the shaft and if one is longer than the other, it can be ground down. You might want to measure the overall lengths of both shafts first and if the grooves are the same distance from the top, the bottom of the long one can be ground.

                        You also might want to check that there is nothing in the splined area in the bottom of the crankshaft which is preventing the driveshaft from going in all the way. An old O ring or parts of one in there can do this.

                      Viewing 10 posts - 31 through 40 (of 70 total)
                      • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.